gcalo

I found a clamp at www.bavauto.com that makes a whole lot more sense than a crowsfoot or crescent style wrench to remove the large 38 mm nut close to the steering rack.

It is their CTA4014 at $19.95, and it can certainly be positioned for max leverage to loosen that nut.

Make sense to me/ I ordered one.

txag_530i

That isn't going to work any better than a crows foot wrench. You clamp around the nut and then use a breaker bar or ratchet handle to turn the tool- just like a crows-foot. The crows-foot tool is properly sized for the nut and is less likely to strip.

gcalo

I don't yet know if it will or will not work any better.

I am curious to try it.

I am getting a 38 mm crows foot tool just for backup.

The BavAuto video showed this tool, it looked interesting, was not expensive, and looked like something worthwhile to have in tool box.

I will let you know.

gcalo

Here is a greatd eal on a 38 mm crowsfoot wrench 97438 Sunex Tools 1/2in Dr. 38mm Fully Polished Jumbo Straight Crowfoot Wrench 0613364019238

It's a Sunex Tools #97438

gcalo

Yesterday, July 4, was my day to install the outer/inner tie rods.

I have to say how facilitated the job was due to the CTA4014 universal inner tie rod clamp I had previously mentioned. I bought mine from BavAuto, but they are available for less at a few other places and eBay.
http://www.ctatools.com/products.html These folks have a ton of interesting products.


I did not have the size floor jack that paran did, and, as such, was not able to raise the vehicle as high as he was able to do.


As such, the CTA4014 was invaluable, and I highly recommend it. I am sure a 38 mm crescent or crowsfoot works, but it was a cinch with this and a 5 lb hammer.


I noticed that my rubber boots were fine but decided to replace them. So I removed the large clap by cutting it, used pliers to compress the smaller one and move it away, and then cut away and removed both boots.


I put the clamp on the passenger side tie rod nut, attached the 3/8" drive wrench to the clamp, and with 2-3 taps of 5 lb hammer it promptly loosened. Same for the driver’s side. Piece of cake and no fighting!

I then measured both old tie rod assemblies, and surprisingly they were both 365 mm to the same point. I disassembled both old units to retrieve the small boot clamps. The OEM clamps were wider and stronger then the replacements supplied with the boot kit, and, thus, I decided to use them.


Then I assembled a unit and tried to screw it into the steering rack thread. It was not going to go in smoothly due to its complete length and strong inner joint, and no way was I going to strip those threads!

I decided to take a different route and make the whole process easier with less frustration. I disassembled both assemblies to attach both inner tie rod sections first. Once again that fabulous inner tie rod clamp made this a breeze!


I then measured the distance from the end of the rack to the inside edge of the 38 mm nut. I had to have a reference for the total distance. That was 45 mm, and I subtracted about 2 mm for the boot thickness.

I had cleaned around the steering rack which was clean anyway, sprayed a small amount SeaFoam lubricant into the 1st two parts of the large boot end, and slipped it over the 38 mm assembly onto the steering rack. The boot fit easily and with no difficulty. I took the large clamp and worked it by hand so that I was able to get it to grab on a very tight notch of the clamp. It was snug.


This procedure made the whole process much simpler, no frustration, and each step was much easier to handle especially dealing with that springy rubber boot. It made it possible for the clamp ends to be located where I could easily get to them.


I did not have an Oetiker crimper and did not want to spend $25.00 - $30.00 for this one application. I purchased a large end nipper tool from Harbor Freight # 38496 for $7.00! I filed down the cutting edges to ensure that it would not cut through the clamp and very carefully squeezed that tool a bit until I knew it was tight. The gap was more than 1 mm, but the assembly was so tight it did not matter. That boot is on for good!


I then made sure the other end of the boot was placed properly and put onto both rods the smaller OEM clamps.


I screwed in the outer tie rod, put my ruler against the boot on rack side, and marked a reference point on the boot to measure and turn the outer rod so that I had the 365 mm measurement from the end of the 38 mm nut. I tightened the outer tie rod nut a bit. I measured the exposed amount of thread behind the nut at 20 mm, and set the other side to the same.


Cleaned the outer tie rod opening at each wheel put a bit of antiseize compound on the our tie rods, pushed the tie rod into place, started the nut, and then used the floor jack to exert a little pressure on the bottom of the tie rod so that I could tighten the nut without the unit turning. Worked great.


After cleaning up, I drove the vehicle down the street a short distance. To my amazement it did not pull left or right, and it did not squeal when I made a U-turn. I felt I was very close to alignment specs.

Took the car to WheelWorks this AM. To my surprise I was in fact very close to spec! I had expected some absurd numbers for correction, but they were miniscule.


The front end is now what it should be.. All new shocks, springs, and dynamite lower control arm urethane bushings from Armstrong Distributors. http://www.armstrongdistributors.com/bmw.html
These are fantastic products, and I might do the rear front lower control arm as well.


I would highly recommend www.rmeuropean.com for parts. They were fantastic, communicative, and the parts were at my door the next day! I purchased the FEBI parts, and they are fantastic.

Thanks to all who contributed and especially to paran for initiating this thread

tex_phil

How many miles did you have on your car when you replaced them? Did you notice a big difference in the feel? I feel like I have some play in my sterring, have 130k miles currently.

cmyachtie

thinking. That’s about right as. I have some play in my right side and am replacing it and have 185000kms and my left side was replaced some time ago. As a matter of fact you did better than me.....