LCI rear lights on pre LCI E61
06-04-2009, 10:39 PM
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My Ride: 2005 BMW 530d M-Sport TouringExterior: Titansilber Metallic, M5 mirrors, ACS rear roof spoiler, BMW Carbon Fiber rear diffuser, Adaptive Xenon headlights, AngeliBright v.3 Angel Eyes, F1 Autohaus Euphoria 6000K LED license plate lightsInterior: Black
Originally Posted by Astretched5' post='901238' date='Jun 5 2009, 02:53 AM
Im doing this DIY this weekend on my E61.
Take pics.
06-05-2009, 04:11 AM
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My Ride: 2005 E61 525d M-Sport, Titanium Silver, Black Dakota Leather, Media Pack, Sun Protection Glass, M6 Staggered Alloys, ACS Rear Diffuser, EBC Green Stuff Brake Pads, I-Pod Interface. Rear Aux Power DIY, LCI Rear Lights, Extended interior lights - doors and footwells, LED licence plate lights.
Originally Posted by Astretched5' post='901238' date='Jun 5 2009, 12:53 AM
Im doing this DIY this weekend on my E61.
09-30-2009, 11:26 AM
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I also did it last weekend and the lights work perfectly well! Thanks Bruce for the cables, the quick shipment and the support.
It was however a bit more involving than I expected to dismantle this nightmare of a tailgate without breaking anything, so I had to finish the job today. All done and lights are working fine.
I have however one problem and I hope you guys can help me to solve it:
There are two rubber "bushings" for lack of a better word that sit under the rear gate window, under each of its two corners - see pic of the left one below in the attachment. Sorry I did not take a pic myself as I believed to have seen a pretty good one in Arne's DIY.
I took out this left rubber bushing as I needed to remove the plastic panel under it. The bushing is held in place by a screw that goes through it, then through a hole in the plastic panel, and then into the metal of the gate.
The problem is, now I cannot put the bushing back on the head of the screw! This is because the head of the screw is entirely in the hole of the plastic panel, which is much smaller than the rubber bushing. I technically have to push a small part of the bushing in the round hole between screw head and plastic panel, but this is practically impossible, even with lubricant, instruments etc.
There are two logical ways to attack this, which both failed:
1) take out the screw, but it through the bushing and screw it back. The screw however is extremely tight and strong, it holds the metal bracket to which the electric tailgate opening arms are attached. So first I could not unscrew it, and second I cannot believe that the car was designed that way, so that to replace a bushing you need to take out a sctructural screw.
2) Take out the plastic panel, put the bushing on the screw and put the panel back, so that the bushing goes up through the hole in the plastic panel. This did not work either, because the bushing is simply too big to go through the hole by itself, let alone with a screw head in its middle..
So has anyone had the same problem and found a solution?
I know it sounds horribly complicated and it would be better to show pictures, but I believe that only someone that has done it before and knows the problem will be able to help. I dont think that a picture will do justice to explain the problem well. I am sure this was designed that way with a certain procedure for fixing it in mind, and I want to know this procedure.
Thanks for any advice!
It was however a bit more involving than I expected to dismantle this nightmare of a tailgate without breaking anything, so I had to finish the job today. All done and lights are working fine.
I have however one problem and I hope you guys can help me to solve it:
There are two rubber "bushings" for lack of a better word that sit under the rear gate window, under each of its two corners - see pic of the left one below in the attachment. Sorry I did not take a pic myself as I believed to have seen a pretty good one in Arne's DIY.
I took out this left rubber bushing as I needed to remove the plastic panel under it. The bushing is held in place by a screw that goes through it, then through a hole in the plastic panel, and then into the metal of the gate.
The problem is, now I cannot put the bushing back on the head of the screw! This is because the head of the screw is entirely in the hole of the plastic panel, which is much smaller than the rubber bushing. I technically have to push a small part of the bushing in the round hole between screw head and plastic panel, but this is practically impossible, even with lubricant, instruments etc.
There are two logical ways to attack this, which both failed:
1) take out the screw, but it through the bushing and screw it back. The screw however is extremely tight and strong, it holds the metal bracket to which the electric tailgate opening arms are attached. So first I could not unscrew it, and second I cannot believe that the car was designed that way, so that to replace a bushing you need to take out a sctructural screw.
2) Take out the plastic panel, put the bushing on the screw and put the panel back, so that the bushing goes up through the hole in the plastic panel. This did not work either, because the bushing is simply too big to go through the hole by itself, let alone with a screw head in its middle..
So has anyone had the same problem and found a solution?
I know it sounds horribly complicated and it would be better to show pictures, but I believe that only someone that has done it before and knows the problem will be able to help. I dont think that a picture will do justice to explain the problem well. I am sure this was designed that way with a certain procedure for fixing it in mind, and I want to know this procedure.
Thanks for any advice!
10-03-2009, 02:16 AM
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Thanks to kErb for the advice!
For everyone else: Apparently "Route 2" is the way to go, I just haven't done it properly - the bushing should be able to go through the hole in the plastic panel..
For everyone else: Apparently "Route 2" is the way to go, I just haven't done it properly - the bushing should be able to go through the hole in the plastic panel..
10-04-2009, 06:28 AM
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My Ride: 2005 E61 525d M-Sport, Titanium Silver, Black Dakota Leather, Media Pack, Sun Protection Glass, M6 Staggered Alloys, ACS Rear Diffuser, EBC Green Stuff Brake Pads, I-Pod Interface. Rear Aux Power DIY, LCI Rear Lights, Extended interior lights - doors and footwells, LED licence plate lights.
Originally Posted by mmitev' post='1023672' date='Oct 3 2009, 11:16 AM
Thanks to kErb for the advice!
For everyone else: Apparently "Route 2" is the way to go, I just haven't done it properly - the bushing should be able to go through the hole in the plastic panel..
For everyone else: Apparently "Route 2" is the way to go, I just haven't done it properly - the bushing should be able to go through the hole in the plastic panel..
01-26-2010, 08:52 AM
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My Ride: 2004 E61 530D - Dynamic Drive - Active Front Steering Sport Seats - Voice Control - Head Up Display - Nav Pro - Bluetooth - Panoramic roof - Front/rear heated seats
Great DIY, I'm going to take the big plunge soon. Any others have tried it since?
02-09-2010, 12:50 PM
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My Ride: 2004 E61 530D - Dynamic Drive - Active Front Steering Sport Seats - Voice Control - Head Up Display - Nav Pro - Bluetooth - Panoramic roof - Front/rear heated seats
Hello Bruce,
First off many thanks for all the work that you have done on all these different retrofits.
And two questions: while searching for OEM LCI E61 tails I stumbeld upon this eBay shop below. Sells cables both individually and as kit with tail lights included. Are you supplying them with your cables or drawings or are they completely different?
I thought that with a quick glance they looked quite similar?
Secondly, I read through many threads about all the different versions of lights and cables. Am I correct when I say that OEM LCI tails + your cables mimic the real LCI completely except for the incremental braking lights?
Thanks in advance!
http://cgi.ebay.de/BMW-E61-TOURING-LCI-LED-RUCKLEUCHTEN-ANSCHLUSS-ADAPTER_W0QQitemZ200413679961QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAutoteile_Zubeh%C3%B6r?hash=item2ea9961159
First off many thanks for all the work that you have done on all these different retrofits.
And two questions: while searching for OEM LCI E61 tails I stumbeld upon this eBay shop below. Sells cables both individually and as kit with tail lights included. Are you supplying them with your cables or drawings or are they completely different?
I thought that with a quick glance they looked quite similar?
Secondly, I read through many threads about all the different versions of lights and cables. Am I correct when I say that OEM LCI tails + your cables mimic the real LCI completely except for the incremental braking lights?
Thanks in advance!
http://cgi.ebay.de/BMW-E61-TOURING-LCI-LED-RUCKLEUCHTEN-ANSCHLUSS-ADAPTER_W0QQitemZ200413679961QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAutoteile_Zubeh%C3%B6r?hash=item2ea9961159
02-09-2010, 10:26 PM
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Model Year: 2006
Those are my cables being sold by a reseller. The Brake Force Display also continues to work with my cables.
02-10-2010, 01:05 AM
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Hello Bruce,
Thanks for the quick reply.
I've indeed seen that the BFD is working, I was just wondering whether it functions differently from the 'real' LCI E61 in the Euro spec version (Two bulbs involved in BFD vs one or something alike?)
Since the BFD location varies so much (came up with your list below from another thread, probably E60 only?) I'm somewhat confused, also the inner to outer change in the beautiful modification of kErb in this thread threw me off somewhat...
Posted 09 January 2009 - 11:04 AM by Bruce Miranda in here
Now if only BMW could decide where to put the Apadative Brake light feature. One place for all cars would be a start.
1. Pre-LCI US cars - BFD = circle light.
2. Pre-LCI EU cars - BFD = middle light.
3. Pre-LCI other regions - no BFD.
4. LCI US cars - BFD = circle light.
5. LCI EU cars - BFD = circle light.
6. LCI other regions - BFD = ??
One last question: putting funds aside coming month for the retrofit, do you prefer me to buy the cables directly from you or through the reseller?
Thanks again!
Thanks for the quick reply.
I've indeed seen that the BFD is working, I was just wondering whether it functions differently from the 'real' LCI E61 in the Euro spec version (Two bulbs involved in BFD vs one or something alike?)
Since the BFD location varies so much (came up with your list below from another thread, probably E60 only?) I'm somewhat confused, also the inner to outer change in the beautiful modification of kErb in this thread threw me off somewhat...
Posted 09 January 2009 - 11:04 AM by Bruce Miranda in here
Now if only BMW could decide where to put the Apadative Brake light feature. One place for all cars would be a start.
1. Pre-LCI US cars - BFD = circle light.
2. Pre-LCI EU cars - BFD = middle light.
3. Pre-LCI other regions - no BFD.
4. LCI US cars - BFD = circle light.
5. LCI EU cars - BFD = circle light.
6. LCI other regions - BFD = ??
One last question: putting funds aside coming month for the retrofit, do you prefer me to buy the cables directly from you or through the reseller?
Thanks again!