KyleB

There's certainly a chance, although the common failure point in the valve body are the shift solenoids. if you have a fresh set in the car now, my guess is that you're in good shape.

seanjordan20

Its been a while since I have viewed this thread. Over the past years I have learned a lot about the E60 transmissions with the help of KyleB giving me the courage to tackle my issue and the internet. These transmissions are hard to brake. Most of the time the issue will be your VB, solenoids and or sleeves with a combination of old oil. I had my issue for three years before I finally made a decision of what I was going to do.

I am the type of person that wants it done the right way so down the line I will not have the issue again. VBs and solenoids work together to make your car shift when its suppose to. Solenoids or the lost of pressure can give you all sorts of codes. I was getting a few codes including the 4F83 code. What I decided to do was cost efficient for me and it paid off. With VBs you have gaskets in them we the consumer can not get to unless you have $15K sitting around to purchase the machine to work on them. What I decided to do was send my VB off to Sonnex to get it rebuilt. I cant remember the exact total but it was around $630 for everything including shipping. While there, they did a pressure and solenoid test. Once tested they took it apart and upgraded the gaskets inside that were failing (all of them). They also replaced the solenoids that were bad. I had three. I had it back in three days because they rebuilt it and shipped it back out the same day they received it. Not a bad turn around. Plus I got a lifetime warranty on the VB which comes with all of there rebuilds. I also purchased the mech sleeve, the 4 VB tube gaskets, bridge gasket, new pan and oil. Once I put it back together and reset the adaptions I have not had the problems since. I think it has been three years now. I am a hard driver so it definitely would have came up again if it was not fixed.

I am not saying the route I went is best for you but for a grand total of no more than $950 (i think) it was well worth it especially when the stealership said it was going to cost me $6500 to fix the issue. In a previous post (#77) I listed who I went through to get the VB rebuilt and the total cost. I hope this has helped you all that are in need.

KyleB

glad you chimed in sean. when I did mine I couldn't find anyone to sell me a reasonably priced new/rebuilt valve body, so I just did the solenoids and seals. As these cars age, the number of repair options sometimes becomes greater. If I had to do it today, I would 100% recommend going the route you did and go with a fresh rebuilt valve body from a reputable company. I couldn't find a valve body for any less than around $1300 when I did my car. At $630, it's a no brainer.

Desert525i

2004 525i with 6HP19, I removed and sent the valve body to Sonnax to rebuild. Replaced the 4 seals and bridge seal, new fluid and reset adaptions. Drove the car and encountered cruise control malfunction, high emissions warning and transmission warnings on IDrive. Came home and reset all errors and drove it like I stole it and it performed like a champ, no issues. Today when I started out the tranny went into failsafe, cruise control not working and came home and used INPA and found errors on the tranny, P1747 and CF07. Cleared the errors and drove again with errors P0700 and P320D. Cleared those and drove it and IDrive said cruise control not working, high emissions and transmission issues. Came back and zero errors for the tranny and couldn't find anything about the cruise control but it was working up until the message on IDrive. Any thoughts since no errors show for the gearbox but it keeps coming up in IDrive?

KyleB

I would start by making sure you have the connector at the Mechatronic sleeve fully seated and fully locked into position.

Desert525i

Thanks for the response. That's exactly what I was thinking too. It could even be a fouled up pin in the connector plug that I didn't notice but removing and reinstalling gave it an intermittent connection which is causing the errors and other faults which don't add up. I knew I should have left the body panel off the bottom for a few days till it all checked out for a week!
Thanks for your original write-up on this, what a lifesaver and money saver too!

Desert525i

KyleB,
You were right which confirmed my thoughts too. I wasn't able to get the sleeve fully seated because I couldn't reach it with the car lifted up only 18"-24" in my garage. I had to give in and have the indy do it on their lift, bad and good news, it works now but cost $550 because of dropping the pan again and a new gasket and sleeve, even though I had already installed a new sleeve and new pan in it. Also a liter of fluid too, again, I had topped it off correctly with new fluid. Live and learn as they say,we'll see if they get future business.
Again, you did a fantastic job with your tutorial! I know you have saved many people here untold thousands of dollars. I'm considering doing the vanos job, if you ever do that tutorial that would be great!

TeflonDon

I have a 2006 BMW 530i with ZF 6HP-19 Transmission.

Basically when I come to a stop light, The Car will jerk/jolt forward. I know this is a transmission issue. I just don't know how many parts I need to replace.....

After reading through many threads on many sites. I'm sure so one one here knows the root cause.

I have INPA, ISTA+, ISTA-P. I have Reset Transmission Adaptations and Learning Via INPA, ISTA+, And I Programmed and Coded the Entire vehicle with ISTA-P 3.61.0.

The jolt/jerk forward happens less frequently but still happens every now and then. I only have 1 error code (Heated Mirror Drivers Side which will be fixed next week, other than that I have absolutely no error codes on any module/ecu in my car.

Any help is appreciated, Thanks for your advise in advance.

I have attached a picture of my shopping cart, I'm also thinking about buying the Sonnax Zip Kit as well, I emailed them to make sure I get the correct one.

If I can, I would prefer not to overspend on this, but while I'm under the car I would like to get as much fixed as possible.

The car has a little over 145,000 Miles, I purchased it last year around this time ( had 125,000 when purchased.) and have did regular maintenance.

Valve Body Rebuild Sonnax Zip Kit 6R60 6R80 ZF6HP19 ZF6HP26 ZF6HP32 (S95741ZK) | eBay

Desert525i

TeflonDon,
If I was to do it all over again I would still send the valvebody in and have Sonnax work it over, the gaskets, springs, valves, solenoids, the whole works. Mine didn't have errors either but it did have the same issues you explained. It's worth the money to get it rebuilt unless you have the means to rebuild it yourself including the items I mentioned. The 4 seals and bridge seal on mine were also shrunk and hardened causing additional issues but no errors. Good luck!!

TeflonDon

Desert525i,

How much did it cost to send in the Valve Body for Repair (Total Costs and turnaround time) This is my only vehicle.