brewmasterflash

So I got a transmission malfunction error code in '04 525 (80k miles) about a week ago. I pulled the code, it's 4F8A gearshift ratio 4-5 (I think, it's in German). I had a new pan and fluid put in a few months back. Do you think replacing the solenoids/gaskets/seals would fix it? The malfunction has not come back, but I don't drive much on the freeway.

KyleB

You probably got 4F85, which is a 'ratio monitoring' fault in the E-clutch of the transmission. Basically EGS detected slip in the E-clutch.

Yes, I think either you have one or more failed solenoids in the valve body and/or your bridge seal is kaput. It's also possible that the input shaft on the E-clutch drum is worn, but it's more than likely due to failed solenoids and seals between the transmission case and the valve body. Welcome to the club.

brewmasterflash

yakshemash for the welcome. I *think* I attached a photo I took of the error reading in inpa. It does mention 4-5 specifically. Shifting is a little clunky in drive but seems fine when i switch over to the manual style. I think I will give it a shot and follow your guide.

You're the man, KyleB. Thanks for the write up!!!

KyleB

Yes, that is a slip code. I had the same thing going on with my car, what I wrote up fixed the problem.

Good luck with car repairings for make benefit BMW, high five!

reddotinvasion

Thank you for the write up.

ZF has back ordered solenoid for The CTSC - ZF Parts and my order has been canceled. It may have been a good thing. I've contacted erikson industries and they told me i have to purchase Part #1068-298-047 has 2 blue, 3 yellow, 2 orange, 1 green and 1 black soln $771.88. I've given my VIN# to check. I have 2008 528xi (6HP19 dealer confirmed)

It seems like a lot of people are spending mid $400, which was what I ordered originally with thectsc,

Im fine spending $771.88 but I want to make sure that I purchase the right one.

Here's the list I got:
1068-298-044 has 3 blue , 3 yellow and 1 black soln $496.83
1068-298-045 has 1 blue, 5 yellow and 1 black soln $458.61
1068-298-046 has 2 blue, 3 yellow and 2 orange soln $555.02
1068-298-047 has 2 blue, 3 yellow, 2 orange, 1 green and 1 black soln $771.88

so I have no clue which one to purchase.

Please help me purchase the right one.

thank you

txag_530i

You have to get under the car, remove the plastic cover and take a look at the data plate of the transmission. That data plate will list the master build number of the transmission from which you can order the correct parts. Don't guess!

john4all

The kit they specified for you is the E-Shift version. If your car has E-Shift (shift lever just bumps forward and backward as opposed to "notching" back a few spaces to get to D) you may be able to buy the $555.02 kit and get by without replacing the green and black solenoids. The more expensive kit is identical, but includes the extra two units for the E-Shift version of the transmission.

If you have an M-Shift transmission you definitely need to confirm your main parts list by checking the plate as txag_530i said since there are two kits depending on the specific transmission. The VIN will NOT tell you which kit you need! For example, my VIN indicates that I have a 6HP19 transmission, but it's actually a 6HP21 (similar, but very different when it comes to the mechatronics).

KyleB

^this.

reddotinvasion

Thank you for the information. I will go under the car to get the information on the plate. Seems like the parts are back ordered everywhere so I have some time. Vendors are uncertain on re-stock date.

Tsubasaftl

I just want to say a quick thanks to KyleB. Without your pioneering work, I would never even know to attempt this.

My 05 525i (M54, 6HP19, 150k KMs) was having the typical shifting troubles and going into failsafe. I could trigger the failsafe mode quite consistently by coasting down a slope in high gear with the engine in or near idle. When the transmission tries to down shift from 5 to 4th, either by itself or via manual selection, it would trip up with a jolt and it would trigger failsafe.

INPA pulled codes 4F86, 4F8D, and finally after 5 failsafes it threw P17EC, after which the TCM was locked in failsafe mode immediately after start and locked in 3rd or 4th for forward gears. (For anyone with this problem but still need to drive the car around (e.g. to the mechanic), after printing out the error codes, you can clear the EM, IM, and reset the transmission adaptation in INPA, afterwards the TCU (mine did, at least) will release the lock and all gears will be available again.

So after reading as much information as I could find, I took a chance and bet it is only a valvebody/solenoid/seal problem, and not something mechanical. The symptoms don’t indicate anything catastrophically wrong with the spinning bits, but you never know.

I gathered the following parts (from all around the world, pretty much. Local supply wasn't very good and most shops want around $3kUSD for a complete mechatronics unit with programming, and those were the shops that didn't want to swap a complete tranny )
-ZF Pressure Regulator Kit (PN#1068 298 044)
-ZF 6HP19/21 Overhaul Kit (PN#1071 298 007) (Bought this because it ended up cheaper than buying the mechatronic sleeve, 4 oil passage seals, 1 bridge adapter seal separately)
-ZF 6HP19 Valvebody separator plate (PN#1068 327 179)
-ZF 6HP19 Oil pan with intergrated filter (0501 220 297)
-Sonnax ZF 6HP19 Zip Kit

I booked a friendly local shop to put the car on their lift for the night and help me remove the mechatronic valvebody. That turns out to be a great idea because the oil pan bolts really made them work for the money. Turns out when I had another shop change the tranny fluids last year (an early attempt to solve the shift/failsafe problem), they had the incredible hulk himself tighten the bolts and over-torqued the hell outta them and stripped the torx hole on most of them. I simply didn't have the tools they had at their disposal to remove the bolts. So if you are going to attempt this, get a new set of oil pan bolts just in case.

With the mechatronic finally removed, I grabbed it and took it home with me (in many garbage bags, otherwise there would be an oil trail all the way home) on a taxi. I decided to work on it at home because all my tools were there and the inside of the valvebody contains some tiny little parts and if you drop any of them in a garage, chances are you'll never see them again.

Once home, the TCU was removed per the widely available instructions. Next, the solenoids were removed and they were in ok condition on visual inspection, with some debris on the screens, but it's not like it was completely clogged. Then the valvebody retaining bolts were removed and I cracked the two halves open (make sure you open it in the same orientation as the valvebody would have been mounted onto the transmission casing (i.e. the bolt heads facing down) otherwise the little check valves (8x tiny black balls that are like bb pallets, 2x plungers with the spring end pointing up, and a little screen might fall out). If you are doing the Zip kit, the 6 pistons will be replaced, again, the spring goes into the bore. Before proceeding any further, grab the new separator plate and make a note of there all the little parts go. If they did fall out, check out my photos for reference of the locations.

I noticed that the sealing gaskets on one side of my old separator plate were kinda smeared and were disintegrating, so cracking open the valvebody was probably a good thing. All the valves inside the valvebody halves were removed next and each bore's contents must be carefully separated and cataloged. Otherwise you'll have a hell of a time putting it back together. I labeled a piece of paper towel and warped the contents of each one carefully and in order and orientation of assembly. When the valve halves were completely stripped, I put them in the shower and used my handheld shower head and just sprayed every nook and cranny clean with hot water (the shower head has a pretty high pressure jet mode, worked wonders getting the old separator plate gasket where were stuck on.

Once they are clean, dry them with a method of your choice. Just make sure they are completely water free before you begin assembly. The Zip Kit replaces many components during the assembly, the instructions provided with the kit were fairly detailed about where everything goes, and the actual assembly was straight forward. Make sure to lube the parts with new transmission fluid (valves) or Vaseline (o-rings) so they don’t score or bind. Remember to put the check valves and the little screen back where they belong before you close the halves. Put the new solenoids in (you made a note of which valve goes where right?), bolt the TCU back on making sure the solenoid contacts are lined up and the contact is secure between the TCU and the solenoid. (The torque spec for the valvebody retaining bolts and the bolts holding the TCU to the valvebody are 6NM)

After spending the night rebuilding the valvebody and the mechatronic is back as a complete unit, I took it back to the shop and had them bolt it back on for me. Before bolting it on, the mechatronic sleeve, the rectangular adapter, and 4 oil passage seals were replaced. Install the mechatronic and attach the electrical cable at the mechatronic sleeve. Before putting the oil pan back on, and definitely before pumping the new oil in, turn the ignition to accessory (position 2) (!!DON'T ACTUALLY GO AND START THE ENGINE!!, your tranny doesn't have anywhere near enough oil in it and you'll probably break something) and check that the transmission does not immediately throw a failsafe warning. If it does, check the solenoid and TCM contact points, and the mechatronic sleeve connector pins. If no errors were displayed, switch the car back off and put new oil in using the ZF procedures. Reset the transmission adaptations using INPA.

The first shift into drive after everything is put back together and wheels on the ground was a bit disconcerting. With my foot firm on the brakes, the tranny banged into gear with a jolt bordering on violent. Shifting from M1 into M2 was firm and quick, but much smoother, as were the rest of the shifts up the cogs. Downshifts were completely fine. From park into reverse there was a slight lurch.

The instructions enclosed with the solenoids says that the shift quality for the first 4 weeks would be bad while the TCM re-learns the solenoid flowrates and clutch pack wear. I’ve been driving around for about 2 weeks now and done about 300km since the rebuild, and the shifts are already completely smooth and quick. The only remain hiccup is the lurch when shifting into Drive, which doesn’t happen everytime and is just an annoyance more than anything. I’ve tried every trick to put the tranny into failsafe and it hasn’t tripped up once.

Anyways, photos can be found here.

Tony