DIY: Shocks install
06-01-2014, 12:41 PM
#71
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Location: San Ramon, CA
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My Ride: 530i
Model Year: 2006
Engine: N52
I did not reuse many old parts especially that dust cover.
I bought everything new so I could 1st assemble the shocks and then another day do the install.
The large washer is 31-30-6-763-966 is about $6.32
The dust collar is 31-33-1-110-196 and it is about $1.50
The dust collar keeps road debris out of the bearing.
Definitely worth installing.
I bought everything new so I could 1st assemble the shocks and then another day do the install.
The large washer is 31-30-6-763-966 is about $6.32
The dust collar is 31-33-1-110-196 and it is about $1.50
The dust collar keeps road debris out of the bearing.
Definitely worth installing.
06-04-2014, 02:19 PM
#72
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My Ride: 530i
Model Year: 2006
Engine: N52
Follow up on the PSB Polyurethane lower control arm bushing install.
This is a must do update when replacing shocks.
The difference in control, tracking, and handling are superb!
There is no squiggle movement now in the front end.
It is fantastic and it tracks true!
Do that upgrade to the lower control arms.
I am going to check the rear control arm bushings when I do the rear shocks very soon.
I will definitely replace those with the PSB polyurethance bushings
This is a must do update when replacing shocks.
The difference in control, tracking, and handling are superb!
There is no squiggle movement now in the front end.
It is fantastic and it tracks true!
Do that upgrade to the lower control arms.
I am going to check the rear control arm bushings when I do the rear shocks very soon.
I will definitely replace those with the PSB polyurethance bushings
10-07-2016, 11:04 AM
#74
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Front shock nut to piston rod 64 Nm (47 Lb-Ft)
Front upper strut mount nuts 34 Nm (25 Lb-Ft)
Front 16 mm bolt 59 Nm (44 Lb-Ft)
Front 18 mm nut 65 Nm (48 Lb-Ft)
Rear Shock to Wheel carrier mounting bolt 165 Nm (122 Lb-Ft)
Rear upper shock mount nuts 28 Nm (21 Lb-Ft)
Rear shock nut to piston rod 27 Nm (20 Lb-Ft)
I'll re-torque again after few hundred miles.
Front upper strut mount nuts 34 Nm (25 Lb-Ft)
Front 16 mm bolt 59 Nm (44 Lb-Ft)
Front 18 mm nut 65 Nm (48 Lb-Ft)
Rear Shock to Wheel carrier mounting bolt 165 Nm (122 Lb-Ft)
Rear upper shock mount nuts 28 Nm (21 Lb-Ft)
Rear shock nut to piston rod 27 Nm (20 Lb-Ft)
I'll re-torque again after few hundred miles.
10-07-2016, 11:13 AM
#75
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Can I still torque the shock nut to piston rod even though the shock mount is installed? I didn't have the strut nut socket that would have allowed for me to torque it down so I just put it on "nice and tight"...if I can torque while it's in place though, I will go do that right now!
Just one of the pitfalls of replying to an old post.
10-10-2016, 07:07 AM
#77
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My Ride: 530i
Model Year: 2006
Engine: N52
Not really as the rod will just turn.
You should get the appropriate star tool that fits the top of the shock, otherwise the shock rod will just turn and you will never get that nut properly tightened..
You need one 3" - 4" in length
It is not very expensive.
I can't remember where I bought mine unfortunately.
You should get the appropriate star tool that fits the top of the shock, otherwise the shock rod will just turn and you will never get that nut properly tightened..
You need one 3" - 4" in length
It is not very expensive.
I can't remember where I bought mine unfortunately.
03-22-2017, 08:39 AM
#78
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My Ride: 2004 530isport packagepremium packageactive steeringxenon hids20mm H&R spacers in the rear6 spd51kpurchase price , 32k back in 2006
Model Year: 2004 530i
Step 5 : Third pic down
Do I basically unbolt everything around the spindle?
Will the alignment be thrown off once I unbolt the lower control arm or what ever that piece is on the right side of the hub.
thanks
Do I basically unbolt everything around the spindle?
Will the alignment be thrown off once I unbolt the lower control arm or what ever that piece is on the right side of the hub.
thanks
04-13-2018, 07:09 AM
#79
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My Ride: E60 530i
Model Year: 2004
Engine: M54
Rear Shock (Right side) Install
Allen was right! There is this plastic piping(Vent Pipe) from the gas filler.
Attachment 90473
1. Chock the front wheel and raise the rear wheel off the ground. Remove the wheels. I placed another 2Ton jack under the differential housing forward of the cooling fins for added safety.
Attachment 90474
2. Remove the lower shock mounting bolt(18mm).
Attachment 90475
3. Access the upper shock mount by removing the side trunk trim panels. Remove the 3 (13mm) upper shock mount nuts.
4. Remove Wheel well liner plastic nut and a few screws. The secret is being able to pull the liner out of the way for the shock to come out.
Screw the wheel bolts so you can step on them and push down with all your body weight (I'm not kidding)
5. Continue with instruction 5 from Post #30.
There it is folks. The ride is much more enjoyable, the way the ultimate driving machine should be
.
Allen was right! There is this plastic piping(Vent Pipe) from the gas filler.
Attachment 90473
1. Chock the front wheel and raise the rear wheel off the ground. Remove the wheels. I placed another 2Ton jack under the differential housing forward of the cooling fins for added safety.
Attachment 90474
2. Remove the lower shock mounting bolt(18mm).
Attachment 90475
3. Access the upper shock mount by removing the side trunk trim panels. Remove the 3 (13mm) upper shock mount nuts.
4. Remove Wheel well liner plastic nut and a few screws. The secret is being able to pull the liner out of the way for the shock to come out.
Screw the wheel bolts so you can step on them and push down with all your body weight (I'm not kidding)
5. Continue with instruction 5 from Post #30.
There it is folks. The ride is much more enjoyable, the way the ultimate driving machine should be
.Thanks,
Ching-Ho Cheng