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DIY maintenance for the DPF...

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Old 10-16-2010, 01:40 PM
  #101  
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Hello and welcome to the forums Andrej, I am in the United Kingdom. We drive on the left hand side.
Good luck with the dpf clean, tho when you see how much trouble the M57N2 is to come out (RHD)..you might change your mind and gut it instead.
Nothing needs changed in the computer after cleaning (tho you may want to do a forced regen).

Keep us updated.

Gav
Old 10-18-2010, 12:16 PM
  #102  
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Hy guys I need a big welcome in DPF CLUB.
Last night my 04 530d 130000km suddenly wont rev past 3000 rpm but no MIL so back to inpa and the result is:

1. 480A- DPF Bank 1
2. 4011- Exhaust Pressure sensor Short circuit to B-
3. 41BB- Exhaust back pressure Sensor
4. 483D- Throttle actuator

After clearing the errors I started the engine after worm up in place not diving the car and then a 30 minutes of very hard accelerations (2500 rpm min all time) the regeneration started when finished back to inpa and only one error DPF Bank 1.
Sorry for my bad English.
Old 10-19-2010, 09:56 PM
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@vlajko
The DPF is blocked.
You have the DPF ( diesel particle filter) under the body of car in super accessible place. You must unscrew 4 bolts and the dpf is down.
When I cleaned the filter I have the other model 2006 which must unscrew the whole exhaust system. For cleaning I used the device that is called " air pressure tank" that a tank like fi300 mm and 500mm long with two connections, one small for air to come in the quick clutch like you have on compressors and one big like DN25 valve that is 1" for air to come out quick and all of it in short time period, that device have every tire repairer. I have pictures and video of my cleaning. I will post them on the end of the day in the evening.
The car is supper the power is back but I can say that now it have more power than before.

Same more come in the evening.
Old 10-20-2010, 09:45 AM
  #104  
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Here are the pictures of cleaning:

See the black ashes on the ground:



Here you can see the "air buster" the blue thing behind the DPF.


We use the brake cleaner and gas, I thing 10 liters.

Now car work like clock. Before cleaning the max. speed was 230 now I had 260 it was not over I run out of road The consumption is better.
We start at 14:00 and we were on test drive at 18:30. Doing that without mechanical car lift is almost not possible.

Bye,
Andrej
Old 10-20-2010, 09:54 AM
  #105  
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Thanks for sharing and congratulations on the succeeded fix!

Welcome to the forums too!

- Antti -
Old 10-22-2010, 02:21 PM
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My DPF problems seemed to start after I removed the swirl flaps on my 05 530d did anybody else notice this or just coincidence.
Old 10-23-2010, 04:18 AM
  #107  
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What are the "swirl flaps" I do not know that part?

Bye,
Andrej
Old 10-23-2010, 10:29 AM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by sott123
My DPF problems seemed to start after I removed the swirl flaps on my 05 530d did anybody else notice this or just coincidence.
It's an interesting question, but I doubt it would affect that much on DPF.

Especially, when considering that swirl flaps would remain open (same as removed) when intake air temperature is lower than 15°C. So, at least my swirl flaps had been more open than closed anyway (before I removed them at January 2009) because of our cold climate. I hope you get what I'm saying...


Originally Posted by airblade
What are the "swirl flaps" I do not know that part?

Bye,
Andrej
Swirl flaps, explained shortly:

BMW Wiring Diagram System

Swirl flap control DDE 5.0

The adjustable swirl flaps are located in the tangential channels of the intake system and are opened and closed according to the operating status of the engine. The swirl flaps are closed under the following conditions:

* at low engine speeds (lower than 2000rpm) and low injection volumes (map-controlled)

The swirl flaps generally remain open when

* the coolant temperature < 15°C OR
* the intake air temperature < 15°C

Function

The pressure converter connects the vacuum unit with the vacuum supply by means of hoses. When activated by the DDE control unit, the changeover valve switches vacuum to the vacuum unit. The vacuum unit actuates the control rod and the swirl flaps close. The control rod is up against the rear stop when the swirl flaps are open.
Troubleshooting

If a fault is detected in the control of the pressure converter, the following faults may be detected:

* 4130, Activation short circuit to B+
* 4141, Activation short circuit to B-
* 4152, Activation circuit break
* 4153, Excess temperature output stage

Effects of faults

If the swirl flaps stick in open position: Deterioration in exhaust gas characteristics in lower speed ranges otherwise no effect.

If the swirl flaps stick in closed position: Power loss of approx. 10% at higher engine speeds.


------------------------------------------------

You should read this and threads behind it.

The real problem with swirl flaps is that a flap axle may break and the flap will be sucked into a cylinder. You can imagine the outcome of that!

Widely known problem in selected BMW diesel engines, but BMW denies everything.

- Antti -
Old 10-25-2010, 09:57 AM
  #109  
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Thanks for all the info. I found an article on a Peugeot 407 with the same issue, the guy said:

"I have now found that it is possible to remove and clean the particulate filter in the Peugeot 407 but this involves first blowing through the filter with a airline to remove most of the loose soot.
The filter should then be soaked for a minimum of 24 hours in TFR fluid and then flushed through several times in the fluid until the liquid runs clean. Finish off by steam cleaning the filter and then blow drying it with the airline. My vehicle now now responds about 25% better on acceleration and is also a little better on fuel economy."

Hmmmmm.... I thought, having just bought a 530d with the same issue, so I merged the two trains of thought...

Removed the offending can from my BMW (luckily it was the easy version, underneath) and stretched a marigold glove over the level end of the DPF. Next I stood it upright in a bowl and filled it with Traffic Film Remover (I tested this on a sooty bolt first, to make sure it dissolved the soot - it did). Took a while to soak into the unit, which was heavily sooted and blocked. I left it 24 hours, then blasted it through with a pressure washer. Wow!...Soot City! Took about 15 minutes before the black sludge turned to clear water. Blasted it both directions to be sure. Afterwards, water just ran freely through it. Dried with the airline, replaced on the car and reset the fault codes - Bingo! Welcome back to the jet set ...the car flies now.

I have to feel sorry for the people with no mechanical understanding, as it must cost them a fortune at their dealer. Now I think I'll spend the 2k I've saved on a nice holiday ....hmmmm maybe a blast around the French Riviera (that should be enough to start the regen cycle LOL).

Isn't it great when things go right?

Thanks again for the insight into the problem )))
Old 10-25-2010, 11:00 AM
  #110  
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Congratulations man and welcome to the forums!

Also thank you for this useful cleaning tip!

- Antti -


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