DIY: Increased Emission No More!!
03-10-2013, 10:38 AM
#71
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Hi
Did you ever fix this issue? I am having the same exact problems and ran out of ideas. I cleaned the MAS, checked and cleaned the CCVs(no tears, no holes, like new), cleaned throttle body, cleaned intake.
Code use to appear and disappear by itself. Now the code is on permanently. Sometimes the car jerks or has a rough idle, but then it stabilizes itself.
I keep getting P0507 on the OBDII.
Did you ever fix this problem? Do you have a solution?
Did you ever fix this issue? I am having the same exact problems and ran out of ideas. I cleaned the MAS, checked and cleaned the CCVs(no tears, no holes, like new), cleaned throttle body, cleaned intake.
Code use to appear and disappear by itself. Now the code is on permanently. Sometimes the car jerks or has a rough idle, but then it stabilizes itself.
I keep getting P0507 on the OBDII.
Did you ever fix this problem? Do you have a solution?
06-23-2014, 10:33 AM
#72
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My Ride: 05 545i
Have a great $11 code reader and more....go to ebay and get an $11 Bluetooth ELM...plug it into your OBDII port....Download OBD Droidscan to your android phone and voila...you can read and reset codes....also get realtime data like the missing engine temp....intake temp...TPS...MAP..MAF...Timing....long and short term fuel trims...engine load...O2 sensors
Doing my PCV valves too...getting emissions codes as well...
Doing my PCV valves too...getting emissions codes as well...
11-15-2017, 09:51 PM
#73
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Hello,
I replaced the PCV valves on my 545i 2004 N62. The new caps don't have the nozzle tube that allow the hoses to be reconnected, going back to the intake.
So i re used the old cap with the new valves/spring, reconnecting the hoses back to it. Should i change the cap out for the new one, if so what does one do with the hoses since the new cap has no nozzle to reconnect them...
Anyway, i replaced the broken valves and put back the hoses on old cap and placed the beauty cover back etc.
The car drives better now, but i still get the 'Increased Emissions' (Secondary air - 002761 error code) related to Bank 2/passenger side.
It came up within a mile of driving after replacement of the PCV valves.
What could i check next, check valves connected to the secondary air pump ?
I also find the cabin getting fairly warm air (with some oil/burn traces) after cold start...and once the car is cruising at speed, many minutes later, the warm air oil/burn symptom goes away.
Any suggestions, greatly appreciated.
roka
I replaced the PCV valves on my 545i 2004 N62. The new caps don't have the nozzle tube that allow the hoses to be reconnected, going back to the intake.
So i re used the old cap with the new valves/spring, reconnecting the hoses back to it. Should i change the cap out for the new one, if so what does one do with the hoses since the new cap has no nozzle to reconnect them...
Anyway, i replaced the broken valves and put back the hoses on old cap and placed the beauty cover back etc.
The car drives better now, but i still get the 'Increased Emissions' (Secondary air - 002761 error code) related to Bank 2/passenger side.
It came up within a mile of driving after replacement of the PCV valves.
What could i check next, check valves connected to the secondary air pump ?
I also find the cabin getting fairly warm air (with some oil/burn traces) after cold start...and once the car is cruising at speed, many minutes later, the warm air oil/burn symptom goes away.
Any suggestions, greatly appreciated.
roka
11-16-2017, 09:54 AM
#74
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Just a quick update...
The primary question is about
- what to do with the hoses if i replaces the old PCV valve cap with the new one, do i simply remove it from the intake side ?
- any guidance on root cause of error code 2761 from those who may have had/fixed this in the past.
My warm air comment in above post might be incorrect, it remains cool as long as the drive has moderate speeds. I sense the warm pollutant air when sitting in traffic surrounded by buses etc. Perhaps a case of more 'awake' senses :-)
Thank you,
roka
The primary question is about
- what to do with the hoses if i replaces the old PCV valve cap with the new one, do i simply remove it from the intake side ?
- any guidance on root cause of error code 2761 from those who may have had/fixed this in the past.
My warm air comment in above post might be incorrect, it remains cool as long as the drive has moderate speeds. I sense the warm pollutant air when sitting in traffic surrounded by buses etc. Perhaps a case of more 'awake' senses :-)
Thank you,
roka
05-14-2021, 08:00 PM
#75
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My Ride: bmw e60 525i
Pictures not opening
Hi all!
Well as the title says, I repaired my "increase emissions" code on my V8 which saved me at least $200 from the dealer (i'm sure dealer would of found a boatload of urgent/recommended repairs/codes so it could of easily been more). You would not believe how easy this was, and i will share with you all the quick and simple procedures to rid of this dreaded code, which i've seen sneaked up on some members here recently.
I got my code a month ago and just wanted to be sure it wouldn't pop up again before i posted this. Well, i've driven my '05 545 for 150 miles since this repair (Aug27) and guess what, no codes! So I know I'm safe posting this now. I'm not saying this is a cure all nor might it solve your particular problem (at least I hope it does!) but this is probably the first repair your dealership may attempt in resolving this issue. Keep in mind this repair was done on my V8. I'm guessing it should be a relative repair to you I6's, but may differ in appearance and cost than the v8's. Please research it here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/ for those with I6's.
Tools needed: Just ONE FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER. Seriously! I even used this to remove the engine cover. haha
Total time doing repair: 30 minutes tops!!
This is the one item (two units) which needed replacing: it's called a "Pressure Regulating Valve - Repair Kit." For you experienced mechanics, it acts like the old PCV (positive crankcase valve) valve in older vehicles. This one's just pricier. BMW Part # 11-12-7-547-058 at approximately $30 each.
[attachment=114841
SC01377.JPG]
And this tool is a life saver. It's called "CodeKey." I discovered it at my local Costco Warehouse for less than $40. Not only will this instrument find the trouble code number (which btw is universal to all vehicles built after 1996 regardless of make), but also the description of what this code number stands for. And to top it all off, it will allow you to "turn off" the "Service Engine Soon" light also.
*** Note: Turning off the "Service Engine Light" before the repair is made will only re-illuminate this light even after driving only several miles. Trust me I know. The car's are pretty intelligent like that.
[attachment=114842SC01407.JPG]
Step 1
Remove engine cover with, yes you guessed it: that handy mandy screwdriver. I don't have a Torx set. Don't need one. haha
I don't need to place a pic here now do I?
Step 2
Remove the cylinder head covers. No tools are required to remove these as they are held in by two studs inside of rubber grommets, one forward and the other aft. Just gently tug on these straight outwards and it should pop right out.
Step 3
Passenger side cylinder head. Do you notice the black round plastic piece towards the front of the engine (centered in pic)? Well, that is the Pressure Regulating Valve, held in by six built-in clips. Disconnect the hose and unclip valve with the handy screwdriver (or your fingernails) and pull it out.
[attachment=114840SC01385.JPG]
Pic of driver side
[attachment=114845SC01387.JPG]
What will happen next is the rubber orange valve will remain in orifice with the spring. No worries. Gently pull the orange rubber valve out to expose the spring. (This pic is of the drivers side)
[attachment=114843SC01394.JPG]
Remove old spring. Wipe down chamber with a clean towel. Repeat step on other side cylinder head.
[attachment=114844SC01393.JPG]
Step 4
Reinstallation. Just do it reversed. With a clean orifice, insert spring, then apply orange valve. Just be sure you seat this rubber valve properly in the existing groove. Snap fit the plastic cover (make sure you hear six clicks) and most importantly, don't forget to re-connect hose. Now install the engine covers.
Here you will notice the groove along the outer edge.
[attachment=114847SC01397.JPG]
Step 5
Connecting CodeKey. With key in the ignition, turn to position 2. This position will illuminate the instrument panel but should not start the engine. Do not start the engine. Now insert CodeKey plug into our vehicle OBD II connector. It is located immediately above the trunk open switch. Your CodeKey is now on, press "Ready" and it will begin to search for code (s). Once done, your CodeKey will display the code number and description. WRITE THIS DOWN! for future reference. I was so anxious to get this done, I neglected to log it down and take pics. Sorry! So I'll do my best to try and remember what codes I had. I had five codes, two weren't described (although did have a number), one related to MAF issue, the other two I just could not remember. I believe the MAF code might be related to me removing the charcoal filter. Not sure though, but I went ahead and cleaned my MAF sensor anyway.
I'm guessing the several codes I received were a result of having a bad pressure regulating valve, that somehow they're inter-related/twined. As if to say when one thing goes bad so will others, but those others may not necessarily be at fault. I hope I'm making sense. Anyway, I went ahead and erased all codes. I drove for 50 miles, re-inserted my CodeKey and "No Codes Found" was displayed. SWEET!!
This by the way is what my old pressure regulating valve looked like when removed:
[attachment=114846SC01398.JPG]
Notice how filthy the one on the left looks compared to the one on the right. Not only was it filthy, but there was a tear in the rubber valve!!
Hope this helps!! Any questions? Feel free to pm me anytime. Good Luck!
Well as the title says, I repaired my "increase emissions" code on my V8 which saved me at least $200 from the dealer (i'm sure dealer would of found a boatload of urgent/recommended repairs/codes so it could of easily been more). You would not believe how easy this was, and i will share with you all the quick and simple procedures to rid of this dreaded code, which i've seen sneaked up on some members here recently.
I got my code a month ago and just wanted to be sure it wouldn't pop up again before i posted this. Well, i've driven my '05 545 for 150 miles since this repair (Aug27) and guess what, no codes! So I know I'm safe posting this now. I'm not saying this is a cure all nor might it solve your particular problem (at least I hope it does!) but this is probably the first repair your dealership may attempt in resolving this issue. Keep in mind this repair was done on my V8. I'm guessing it should be a relative repair to you I6's, but may differ in appearance and cost than the v8's. Please research it here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/ for those with I6's.
Tools needed: Just ONE FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER. Seriously! I even used this to remove the engine cover. haha
Total time doing repair: 30 minutes tops!!
This is the one item (two units) which needed replacing: it's called a "Pressure Regulating Valve - Repair Kit." For you experienced mechanics, it acts like the old PCV (positive crankcase valve) valve in older vehicles. This one's just pricier. BMW Part # 11-12-7-547-058 at approximately $30 each.
[attachment=114841
SC01377.JPG]And this tool is a life saver. It's called "CodeKey." I discovered it at my local Costco Warehouse for less than $40. Not only will this instrument find the trouble code number (which btw is universal to all vehicles built after 1996 regardless of make), but also the description of what this code number stands for. And to top it all off, it will allow you to "turn off" the "Service Engine Soon" light also.
*** Note: Turning off the "Service Engine Light" before the repair is made will only re-illuminate this light even after driving only several miles. Trust me I know. The car's are pretty intelligent like that.
[attachment=114842
SC01407.JPG]Step 1
Remove engine cover with, yes you guessed it: that handy mandy screwdriver. I don't have a Torx set. Don't need one. haha
I don't need to place a pic here now do I?
Step 2
Remove the cylinder head covers. No tools are required to remove these as they are held in by two studs inside of rubber grommets, one forward and the other aft. Just gently tug on these straight outwards and it should pop right out.
Step 3
Passenger side cylinder head. Do you notice the black round plastic piece towards the front of the engine (centered in pic)? Well, that is the Pressure Regulating Valve, held in by six built-in clips. Disconnect the hose and unclip valve with the handy screwdriver (or your fingernails) and pull it out.
[attachment=114840
SC01385.JPG]Pic of driver side
[attachment=114845
SC01387.JPG]What will happen next is the rubber orange valve will remain in orifice with the spring. No worries. Gently pull the orange rubber valve out to expose the spring. (This pic is of the drivers side)
[attachment=114843
SC01394.JPG]Remove old spring. Wipe down chamber with a clean towel. Repeat step on other side cylinder head.
[attachment=114844
SC01393.JPG]Step 4
Reinstallation. Just do it reversed. With a clean orifice, insert spring, then apply orange valve. Just be sure you seat this rubber valve properly in the existing groove. Snap fit the plastic cover (make sure you hear six clicks) and most importantly, don't forget to re-connect hose. Now install the engine covers.
Here you will notice the groove along the outer edge.
[attachment=114847
SC01397.JPG]Step 5
Connecting CodeKey. With key in the ignition, turn to position 2. This position will illuminate the instrument panel but should not start the engine. Do not start the engine. Now insert CodeKey plug into our vehicle OBD II connector. It is located immediately above the trunk open switch. Your CodeKey is now on, press "Ready" and it will begin to search for code (s). Once done, your CodeKey will display the code number and description. WRITE THIS DOWN! for future reference. I was so anxious to get this done, I neglected to log it down and take pics. Sorry! So I'll do my best to try and remember what codes I had. I had five codes, two weren't described (although did have a number), one related to MAF issue, the other two I just could not remember. I believe the MAF code might be related to me removing the charcoal filter. Not sure though, but I went ahead and cleaned my MAF sensor anyway.
I'm guessing the several codes I received were a result of having a bad pressure regulating valve, that somehow they're inter-related/twined. As if to say when one thing goes bad so will others, but those others may not necessarily be at fault. I hope I'm making sense. Anyway, I went ahead and erased all codes. I drove for 50 miles, re-inserted my CodeKey and "No Codes Found" was displayed. SWEET!!
This by the way is what my old pressure regulating valve looked like when removed:
[attachment=114846
SC01398.JPG]Notice how filthy the one on the left looks compared to the one on the right. Not only was it filthy, but there was a tear in the rubber valve!!
Hope this helps!! Any questions? Feel free to pm me anytime. Good Luck!
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