addy33

Active steering is exactly what you stated. At very slow speeds the amount of turn in exaggerated, while its slightly reduced at higher speeds.

Cars with active steering have no change in steering feel after pressing the Sport Button. I think it might be because active steering is probably independent of what type of gearbox you have. Only thing I recall is active steering was not offered with AWD cars. I think it is now with the F10 but don't quote me on it

rice_rocket88

I'm going to chime in on this because I recently did the "secret sport button mod" and I do indeed have the stiffened steering. I have a 2008 535XI. I dislike the harsh steering so I was directed to this thread to read.. and ugh, low and behold it's two posts above this.. which is the second last page now

Anyways, summary of what I did:
1) did the sports transmission flash (This changed my DS to S so it's always "sport".. I don't need the DS anymore in my opinion).

2) I did the "secret sport button mod" On the LCI models USA version, you go into the glove box, remove the cover, and there is a white box above the actual row of fuses. You short pins 7 and 9 with a temporary switch.

** This enabled sport mode, and the active steering. However, NO SPORT listed on the dash

3) Went and looked and KOMBI for coding, and found FDC_VERBAUT and set it to aktiv.

** This enabled SPORT to show up on the dash.

Now.. I'll think about the sports paddles in the future.. but I didn't have to change the sports shifter assembly (although it does look better admittedly) I have not had to invest any $$ yet in getting the right transmission flash and all these sport modes.

yakev724

To add one more thing for anyone attempting the GKE reflash, it took me several tries to get it to code successfully (which can be a bit nerve wracking, but of course I still had my stock unit to go back to in the worst case).

Could have been due to a cheap cable, but I think I ended up reinstalling my coding software, making sure to run everything with the proper compatibility and admin permissions (was using win 10 on a macbook), after which it worked almost right away.

NoQuarter

Anyone know why I do not have the .ats files in my data folders?

I have .dat, .his, .hwh and a bunch of the .0da files. but no ats.

ideas?

Jim

sterile stork

To add from my experience doing this install today:

The ECU listed in the redux FYI has been superseded, the new part # is:

• 61 31 9 213 650

This part has the misfortune of costing a sizable amount more than the part is replaces; at $526.27 via heavily discounted GetBMWParts it's no small purchase.

I haven't done any of the coding but will remark that on my MY10 (06/09 build) E61 535 xDrive the Sport button only serves to stiffens up the steering, and overly so at that, no change in throttle response or changes to shifting mannerisms. Even Sport Plus in my E92 M3 doesn't feel this heavy. I'll be looking forward to doing the coding, need to locate the SAT firmware, as well as Alpina transmission flash. I have to make another purchase at GetBMWParts, am tempted to order and M5 steering wheel w/SMG pedals to get the sportaktiv fully functional. Any insight?

GTYellowJacket

I just did the sport shifter hardware installation in my 2010 e61 535i tonight after finding all the parts from a 2009 on eBay for $300.

I did the GKE SAT flash a few months ago and learned a lot of lessons the hard way (24 hours of a "bricked" car). I'm actually glad I did, because I know a lot more about the process and the best way to do it vs most of the forum posts you can find.

Anyway, you definitely need to do the GKE flash to get the better shifting and throttle response. Remember, no Alpina flash for the 5 Series though. With the flash alone, I got the faster shifting. But now with the flash and the sport button engaged, I notice both faster shifting and better throttle response.

I haven't even bothered to code the VO/FA or the steering, because everything worked as soon as I finished the hardware installation, and the default Sport steering weight feels great.

sterile stork

Now you're just rubbing in the price difference

I'm about to embark on the flashing, what lessons did you take away?

GTYellowJacket

Well, I searched eBay for months to find them, but I should have ordered sooner. I did learn about a great tool someone in the community made for comparing prices - BMW PNPC. Thinking about it now, I could have ordered them months ago, flipped burgers in all of the time I spent searching, and come out ahead.

As for lessons, there are many:

As you have probably read, keep the car voltage maintained with a charger or another car and turn off all accessories, fans, lights, etc and close the doors to minimize current draw. I monitored voltage throughout, and it's not the actual data transmission portion of the flash that is power intensive, but the flashing at the very end (after winKFP reports 100% but before it reports "success"). The battery voltage will drop VERY quickly during this step.

WinKFP is actually easier to use in Expert mode to push only the data file file, and the process will actually go faster.

Most of the configuration options everyone says to select in the online guides are wrong.

You don't have to write UIF data. By disabling UIF write, you will get unlimited writes, and it won't show the new flash file if the UIF was ever read from the ECU. No one will know the flash is on the car unless the shifter is pressed to the side in "S" mode.

sterile stork

Thank you for sharing from your experience! I have reached out regarding the installation of a M5 (with SMG paddles) steering wheel via factory integration method and will then go about flashing the various sub-systems. Hoping for a fun learning experience.

Munty

All,

I've been following this thread with great interest since I bought a 2007 LCI E60 530D a couple of months back. It's a great car as it is, but the SAT retrofit described here has 'turned my head'. So I bought the parts (the selector unit for pre-2009 cars is now part number 9212220) and fitted them last weekend. No paddle shifters yet - just the stick shifter.

It looks and feels great (see attached - removed unit on the seat), but after reconnecting the battery, the thing is completely dead - no LED showing 'park' (although the car is stuck in park); no interlocks (after selecting (say) drive - prevents selecting drive again); no return to the right after pressing PARK button with the stick to the left; no sport button LED when pressed - and, of course, no gears!

No apparent errors/complaints from the car - at least none on the dash (not able to talk to OBD yet).

Has anyone who's done this retrofit ever had this before? I was expecting it to (at least) work the same as the original unit - until I coded/flashed the beast.

Do I conclude that this selector is dead? Is there any way of testing it (other than putting it in another car)?

I was forced to replace the original non-sport auto selector. Works fine - like it had never been away - no complaints from the car.

Many thanks for any ideas. My default plan is to send it back, but it came from the US, so there's the time, cost, etc. so if it ain't bust, I'd like to try to make it work.

Cheers,
Munty