Ricapar

Cleaning out intake and exhaust VANOS solenoids
WhyMy ResultsDifficulty LevelTime RequiredItems Required:

• Ratcheting Wrench w/10mm socket
• Torx Screwdriver.. don't know the measurement. Try 'em till one fits.
• Small cup/pan of gasoline or other cleaning fluid.
• Gloves, if you don't like getting your hands dirty.

The DIY
0. Gather your tools!
Things will go much quicker if you have everything on you.

1. Remove the metal plate over the radiator.
There should be a total of 10 torx screws you have to remove. After all of those are out, the plate should come off easily. Be careful with the cables for the hood latch. You can unscrew the hood latches if you'd like (two screws on each side, same torx screwdriver as the 10 others will work), but note that the cables are clipped to the underneath of the plate. Take the plate off, and slide it over to the side.

Although you can probably manage to get them out without removing this cover, it'll make your life 1000x easier if you do.

Also, be careful not to drop anything down in the engine, or you'll probably find yourself having to take out the bottom dust cover to retrieve it.

2. Locate the VANOS Solenoids.

Image credit Bentley Publishers. There's a cable attached to each solenoid. Each able has a metal clip on it - push it inwards, and you should be able to wiggle the cable out. Make sure you remember which cable goes to which solenoid. It's pretty obvious which goes to which, but it's an detail you probably don't wanna screw up.

3. Unscrew and Remove the VANOS Solenoids
On the top of each one is a metal clip with a 10mm bolt holding it in. Take your ratcheting wrench and turn each one counter-clockwise until you can feel it moving freely. DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLTS WITH THE WRENCH. Use your finger to do the last several turns to get them out. You'll risk dropping them down otherwise. No fun.

You can remove the solenoids now. Pick one, grab it by the plastic clip on the end, and give it a circular wiggle and pull. It should come out with a minimal amount of resistance. Repeat with the other one.

You'll notice that the solenoids are covered in stuff. That's just oil from inside the engine - perfectly normal. Put them aside on a towel or container.
Also note that each solenoid also has a black ring that goes around it - it should come out with the solenoid when you take it out of the engine. Make sure you don't drop/lose this too.

Picture of the engine with both solenoids removed:



4. Cleaning
The Bentley manual says to clean them with air. However, I've seen cleaning methods all across the board. Some use regular gasoline, some diesel gasoline, some brake fluid, etc. Pick your toxic fluid, dunk the end of the solenoid in there and woosh it around for a little bit. Then leave it there to soak for a while. Repeat for the other one.

Solenoids after cleaning:


Tuppaware container of gasoline I used to clean them in:


5. Putting it back together.
Make sure the black rings are around the solenoid. Re-insert into the engine. If it feels like it doens't want to go in.. move it around a little bit. Requires a little bit of a push for it to go back in.
Start off the bolt with your fingers, then finish tightening it with the ratcheting wrench, this time turning clockwise. No need to over-tighten the bolts - you didn't need too much force to get them out, you don't need that much to put them back.

Connect the cables back to the solenoids. Give them a wiggle to make sure they've clipped in.

6. Turn on the engine!
Before putting everything back together, turn on the engine and make sure you don't get any check engine lights. If all is well, continue.

If anything comes up or you can't start... re-check your connections. Make sure both solenoids are connected properly. Make sure you didn't knock any other cables out either. If still nothing... then you probably have a bigger problem on your hands than you thought.

7. Re-place the metal cover
Put all 10 torx screws back in. Make sure the hood latch cables aren't being bent/squished.
Check to make sure that you haven't left any tools or other foreign items under the hood or floating around the engine compartment.
Close the hood, and make sure it latches properly.

You're done!

I hope this helps someone. It's a fairly easy procedure, but I know quite well it's a lot easier doing things when you know someone else has done it before and when there are step by step guides .

txag_530i

Thanks for taking the time to do this!

Luxurytax

Awesome write up!!!

Ricapar

More Updates!

Alrighty... so after two days of a 30+ mile commute, driving both granny style and also pushing the car a bit, I went and read the codes again.
I still my have thermostat code, which was expected. That's a separate issue in itself though.

The two codes I mentioned in my original post are gone. However, a new VANOS related one came up.

Code:

Error 2(2) Nr: 10882	-	2A82 Inlet-VANOS
(218) Moves with difficulty, jammed mechanically
P0012 - 'A' Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)

Screenshot from INPA:




After some research, it seems like the way to go with this type of situation is to replace the VANOS solenoid (in this case - the intake one. A = intake, B = exhaust). However, I'm going to do an oil change soon though - I'm going to do that and clean the solenoids again and see if it makes a difference. It could very well be dirty oil that's jamming them up. Though I know that with my luck I'll probably end up replacing the solenoids anyways - probably both of them as a good measure, since both were throwing at code at one point in time.

I'll continue to update this thread with my findings.


Also, on a side note:
If you are a DIY-er, get yourself INPA and a OBD-2 -> USB cable! GET ONE.
It'll be the single most valuable tool you can have. I wouldn't have known where to start searching had it not been for the detail you get in INPA over what you get through a normal code reader device.
I have this cable:

http://www.amazon.co...21019837&sr=8-5

http://www.amazon.co...21019837&sr=8-5

My car is a 2007 Pre-LCI 525xi - so I didn't need one with the special chip/protocol that new models make. If you have an older model, the cable above should work for you.
INPA you can find online anywhere if you dig around.

AchtungE60

Nice write up...i've never owned anything except for M52 and M54 engines and probably never will but this should be helpful for a few.
I wouldn't put my heart into buying that cable, Last 3x I did that I burned out a few modules. Besides, that cheap chinese cable is good for a time and can only do K line not dual K- lines and no D-Can required for post 2007 vehicles. I'd invest in a nice cable. Some INPA are not in English and can be confusing and are missing files so that really helps.

Xeronix

Do you think that dirty oil could be jamming the VANOS? I've had to add a quart of oil 2 times in the past 4 months, not sure if that's normal. Today, while detailing my engine, I noticed that it was making LOUD clicking, when the engine was cold (45 degrees F ambient temperature). Also, when I popped the hood, the engine literally cut out, then came back to life. Kind of scared me

I'm literally about to go out to my local auto store and see if they have an OBD2 to USB cable so I can see what kind of errors the car is throwing.

jay bimma

cleaning these valves should be done anyways for preventative maintenance because they are known to jamm. whenever i started my car (cold start only), for the first ten seconds i would have a very rough idle where the rpm gauge what fluctuating alot but i never got any codes or check engine lights. after ten seconds it was always back to normal. i initially thought that 1 of my injectors was starting to leak and bleed down throughout the night causing excessive fuel in the chamber for the spark plug to ignite. i took both vanos valves out and cleaned them with brake clean and then with compressed shop air and re-installed them. been fine ever since. i will note though that it is not necessary to remove the top engine plate over the radiator. it does give you a little more room and sight but i have small hands so it was not a big deal.

Ricapar

It's a possibility. They're little moving parts that are usually soaking in the engine's oil. Given their track record (as pointed out by the quoted post below, and many Google searches), some dirty oil jamming them wouldn't be too far-fetched.

Also, props to you detailing your car in 45F weather. I hate the cold especially doing car stuffs in the cold.
Not sure what to say about the loud clicking and the engine cutting out though. I know it's almost normal to hear clicking from VANOS while the engine is cold, but it's usually not LOUD loud.

Good luck though!


Yup. If you have small hands, you should be able to manage without removing the plate over the radiator. And small-ish tools. I personally don't have much of either.

Xeronix

Well, it's not a knocking or something, it's more of a really rapid click. Kind of annoying though, depends on how close you are to the engine.

Kudos to you for being brave enough to take you VANOS solenoids out, hahaha I'm too afraid of breaking the thing, BMW would probably charge 300 dollars for it.

blipszyc

Any luck with the oil change? I just got the P0012 and a P1554 code and am about 2500 miles from an oil change. I was planning on taking it to an Indy and having them change the oil and clean the solenoids if that did the job. I just relocated and am in temp housing so all my tools are packed in storage so I'm hoping just a simple cleaning and new oil will solve the problem.