jkchris

Hallo,
Can anyone put shematics for LCI AC Basic ---> LCI AC HIGH please.
I have basic lci and i want to set high LCI panel .

Also if i can ask for info how to coding high AC by NCS.

Best Regards
JKCHRIS

V8d4eww

Which one out the two ac controls is best I have a pre lci basic controls (big black knobs) 54 plate it doesn't have dual climate, but can I have dual climate
Thanks

catalin2507

You solvet the problem? In which pin you put the red yellou wire?

jkchris

No i did't . I have it not conneccted

JKCHRIS

Arkadius1984

Hi,
I have become a proud owner of my second BMW, a black 2007 520d LCI touring, unfortunately with a basic climate control system. After reading loads of guides and tips I have decided to upgrade the panel to the HIGH one, but I think that I will be missing the proper dual climate feature - so a bit of a challenge with getting all the necessary bits and pieces(without spending a fortune ).

Fortunately I have managed to get all the parts, wires and connectors - all came up to just over 200 quid. The list consists of:

- LCI high control panel
- high heater assembly with 9 motors
- double water valve for heater matrix
- 2x hoses from water valves to heater matrix
- rear air vents with temperature control potentiometer
- condensation sensor (mine is brand new, but you can get a second hand one no problem)
- ventilation temperature sensor
- AUC sensor
- solar sensor (actually I have bought it, but it isn't required for my car).

Of course meters of wires to connect all the bits together, so I went to my local scrapyard/breakers and found an E39 with dual climate control, as it's using same (almost) 26 pin blue connector required to plug the HIGH panel to my e61, plenty of standard bmw 3 pin male connectors (required for rear vents, condensation and ventilation temp sensors) 3 pin female connectors for water valves and AUC sensor and 2 pin power connectors. On top of that the whole bucket of wires (I was trying to get the same colours and gauges as per wiring diagrams, which took 2 hours with side cutters and other tools to pull them out of that E39 )

Obviously some soldering was involved, heat shrink tubing recommended, as it looks nicer and does better job than i.e. insulation tape, some fabric tape to finish the wiring off.

I decided to fit the control panel first to check it's operation before I get on with ripping the dashboard out, so I have wired it in line with WDS diagrams - However I have run into a few problems:
- pin 2 of the old 18pin plug was supposed to be empty, but there was a red/yellow wire there (it is 12v supply, fed from glovebox fuse compartment, fuse 11), so I simply did put a heat shrink tube over it and never connected it to anything.)
- pin 4 - I got confused when I first had a look at it, as wds states it supposed to be grey/black wire, so I have misplaced it for the grey/black rear screen defroster wire, so air con wasn't working, but swapping the wires cured it. (so pay attention, as they are same colours but different gauges)

So as of today (13.09) I'm still waiting for condensation and AUC sensors to turn up, but in the meantime I got the heater assembly, temperature sensor, rear potentiometer and water valves connected temporarily and in ISTA/D it's all showing as fine (apart from the fogging sensor and AUC sensor DTCs). All the extra 3 motors are working fine when triggered in ISTA, temperature readouts are plausible, water valves operate correctly, so maybe sometime next week I will take the dashboard out and do the proper "retrofit". Will get the car to my local garage to empty the refrigerant before I start the work, and they can refill it for 25 quid, which is a great price

A word of explanation on the solar sensor - looks like in LCI cars the solar sensor mounted in the speaker grill does no longer exist (if you look at the parts list in ETK, the solar sensor does not appear on it - only condensation sensor) - the IHKA is using digital outputs from solar sensor mounted on the windscreen,e t (the combined rain/solar sensor) for left and right side, so the 4 pins in the blue control panel plug will be empty(10,11,12,13) as the signals come through a CAN network.

I've mentioned earlier that the blue plug from e39 was almost the same as the one I needed for my panel - the outer shell is the same, however the white insert is designed for slightly different connectors - will post some photos explaining that later. So the option is to either get the correct insert from another e60 or from BMW dealer or do what I did - making an adapter that would take the original connectors from the car on one side and have the connectors that would fit the e39 insert - literally 20 min job, using connectors that came with the blue plug and soldering them onto the 2 x 10 pin plugs (I've used 2 identical plugs from E39, one from the steering column and the other one from the rear view mirror, taping them together side by side and it does the job perfectly) Temporarily the panel gets the power from red wire that was a pin 10 of old 18pin plug, but I am planning on using a 1,5 gauge red wire that I got from E39 and run it all the way to the back fusebox, and replace the existing wire that is currently supplied from fuse 57. Same with all the grounds (1 for 2 pin plug, one for the blue-brown wire(refrig. pressure sensor ground), pin 25 of blue plug, ground for the ventilation temp sensor, ground for the AUC sensor, ) - I am planning on using a lenghth of 1.5 gauge brown wire and run it all the way to the ground point, under the carpet, by the bonnet release lever.

As to the coding - Pretty much standard, just add $534 option to FA, write it to the CAS and LMA modules, code CAPPL, IHKA and you are set to go.


It's getting a bit late now, time to bed

Most likely won't be able to edit this post later on, but will continue updating on the progress of retrofit in the next posts. Eventually I have plans to prepare a full guide with photos and tips after I will successfully finish the process. Due to copyright rules I can't post original BMW wiring diagrams, so will prepare a my own thing(see attached file). Mind that bold red numbers show where the pins from old 18pin connector are supposed to be connected on the blue 26 pin connector and 2pin power supply connector.




Any questions, suggestions - just get in touch.

Regards, Ark.

Arkadius1984

Hi,
I have finally managed to find some time to rip the dashboard out and get on with replacing the heater.

Following the official TIS guide is fairly easy, assistance of the second person is more than welcome, especially when removing the dashboard, support frame and heater, but it can be as well done on your own, just will take more time The guide mentions draining the coolant off completely, however with the use of 2 medium size hose clamps - one on the engine return hose and the second one on the aux pump inlet hose - it can be avoided.

As my heater assembly was equipped with aux electric heater that sits just behind the heater matrix inside heater housing, and the one I was supposed to replace it with didn't have one, there was a modification required, both to the assembly and the wiring. While taking both of them apart I've decided to keep most of my old heater and only replace the bits that were required.

- 3 servomotors, numbers 4,7,9 on the following diagram:

Actuator for autom. air condition High BMW E61N touring 50468

pay attention not to mix up the motors, as they are specifically programmed to work in one position only.

- distributor housing top, number 2 and rear heater duct, number 6 on the following diagram:

Housing parts automatic air conditioning BMW E61N touring 50468

- heater matrix pipes, number 2 on the followning diagram:

HEATER RADIATOR AUTOMATIC AIR CONDITION BMW E61N touring 50468

I've replaced all 3 o-rings just in case.

On the Basic Heater both ventilation flaps are connected with a white plastic connector - simply remove it and with the motor I've mentioned earlier in place it will be ready for individual left and right side operation. Just fit 2 temperature sensors and the heater assembly will be complete.

Now to the wiring. If your original assembly doesn't have aux heater then it's a straight swap. My required some modification. The aux heater plug was 4 pin - 3 wires just simply connect to the existing wiring in the same way the servomotors do, just unwrap the tape from the connection points and solder the 3 wires on, matching the colours. The 4th wire is an orange one, so I've just used a length of the wire scavenged from the e39 and connected it to the pin no 7 of the main wiring plug, then wrapped all up in the fabric tape.

With the wiring connected up and routed properly you can put it all back in the car, preferably with the help of a second person. Pay attention to insert the evaporator drains all the way into their slots, as you will get water inside the passenger compartment otherwise. Secure it in place with the 4 nuts, reconnect the refrigerant lines, making sure you don't pinch the seals. As to the heater hoses, there is either a replacement grommet required with 3 holes instead 2, if you can get hold of one obviously, however there is an easier and cheaper solution - you can reuse your old one. All you need is a 28mm holesaw - just look at the item number 11 on the following diagram and drill the 3rd hole roughly as per picture.

Water valve/Water hose IHKA High BMW E61N touring 50468

The above diagram also shows you the 3 additional bits you have to put on - 2 hoses (items 2 and 3) and a double water valve (item 4), as well as the rough idea of where which hose needs to be connected should you get confused at any point.

At this point it is a good idea to route the new wiring for the water valve and AUC sensor from the engine bay into the cabin. You are free to do it as you want, I will just give you some pointers as to how I did it. AUC sensor wiring was 1.5m long in my case, which turned out to be only slightly too long (I've prepared all the new wiring loom as a rough guess, without calculating the exact routing, so ended up with most of it being slightly too long ). There is a rubber grommet in the firewall that all the cables are going in and out of the cabin on the drivers side, so just simply pierced that and used a bit of a silicone to make it watertight again when the AUC wiring was already in place. To calculate the length of the cables you need on the engine bay side, just put it side by side with the bonnet switch plug and add around 8 extra inches.

The wiring for the water valve is routed as the old one used to be, but I've used a spare grommet on the side of the ECU compartment to route it into the cabin instead of splitting the existing wiring room. Also I've decided not to use the original yellow/brown wire from water valve plug, but prepared the whole new one, with 3 wires and a new plug, as the original one is 2 pin and new water valve requires 3 pin plug.

The condensation sensor that sits on the inside of the windscreen, under the mirror cover, also needs a new wiring, so to install it you will need to get access to under the roof lining on the front passenger side - route the cables along the existing ones for the passenger sun visor mirror, then behind the side airbag on the pillar, and finally alongside the water valve loom you've installed earlier.

Wiring for the rear stratification flap controller is also easy to work out - just use some fabric tape to attach it to an existing loom that goes towards the heater, leaving enough slack so it can easily sit behind the radio/nav.

The ventilation temp sensor wiring is really simple - 10 inches of blue and brown wires is all it takes.

At this point I've used a length of 1.5 gauge red wire, routed it alongside the existing wiring that goes to the back fuse box, and replaced the original 0.75 red wire fed from fuse 57, replacing the 7.5A fuse with 15A one.

Also a length of 1.5 gauge brown wire was connected to the ground point, on the side of the passengers footwell, and the other end had a 10 pin female plug that all the grounds from new wirings and AC control panel were connected. Could have used the existing red and brown wires, and it probably would be fine, but just wanted to be safe, and as car was in bits anyway so it didn't take long.

Ok, so assuming that all the wiring is in place, the heater assembly is ready, you can start reassembling the dashboard and the center console. Work methodically, double check all the bits as you go and all should be fine.

There is a slight modification required to the air distributor, item 1 on the following diagram:

http://www.etk.cc/bmw/EN/search/sele...CE/64/64_1609/

As the HIGH system uses a ventilation sensor that is mounted inside the air distributor, you either need a new one or can easily modify the existing one - the above diagram shows where the sensor is mounted (the black stick on the left side of the part) - if you look at your original one, on the underside there is a template of where you will have to drill - with 8.8mm drill bit drill a hole perfectly in the middle of the template, then use a small rectangular file (or a dremel with a small burr) to cut out 2 recesses one opposite the other, so that you can engage 2 tabs of the temperature sensor in them and lock it by rotating it. Might sound a bit odd, but you will get what i mean when you will hold bot parts in your hands - just use some common sense.

I've had the control panel connected up an coded earlier, so all that was needed after reassembling the parts was topping up the coolant (around 1.2l) and regassing the air con. It all fired up straightaway, working as intended - only fault in memory was the aux pump - must have pull the plug loose while installing the water valve and hoses - after refitting the plug all was working perfectly - did a lot of testing, all the motors are working beautifully, the whole system is brilliant - so far so good. Just waiting for the condensation sensor from Poland to arrive and it will be complete.

Next project:
-High beam assist (FLA mirror on the way)
-Folding and dimming side mirrors.... well, if I can get hold of a reasonably priced pair

BTW, excuse my English grammar - it's not my first language

P.S.

Just had a thought - if you can't get hold of the heater assembly cheap enough, then your existing heater can be adapted to take all new parts. The bits you will need to get are:
- 3 servo motors, as mentioned earlier
- Rear air duct
- 1 heater temperature sensor (the template for it is already in place, just need a dremel to cut it away)
- heater matrix pipes as mentioned earlier.
- wiring can be easily modified.

stuff.hunter

Hiya mate, did you manage to put some diy together by any chance?
cheers

mybeemer

Hi,

Can someone please tell me how to retrofit from AC LOW BASIS (PRE-LCI) to AC LOW BASIS (LCI)?

I will be installing MASK2 business LCI and need to change the front panel + ac unit. I already have all parts but when installed the air compressor is not working... do I need to change some cables around?

mybeemer

Any update on this guys? When I connect Basic LCI panel the compressor is not working and I am getting (compressor clutch) error in ista... I think the LCI basic has two additional cables needed but not sure which ones are they....

dzwx

Run into same problem after switching panels(preLCI), is there any way around it?Like said it's a detail but would be better/easier to be able to change settings from driver menu level

thanks